Alpinist Magazine Issue 45 - Winter 2013-14

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A Reasonable Risk?
As Raphael Slawinski approached Pakistan's unclimbed K6 West (7040m), the aftermath of the terror attacks at Nanga Parbat's Diamir Base Camp, as well as the objective hazards of the mountain itself, forced him and his partner Ian Welsted to re-examine their understanding of risk.
Edges of Land and Light
In recent years, Jon Griffith has made an alpine-style ascent of the East Face of Piergiorgio and a solo linkup of the Aiguille Verte, Les Droites and Les Courtes. As Ian Parnell explains, Griffith's photos represent a quest for something even more challenging, located at the limits of vision itself.
Journey into Night
In October 2013, Ueli Steck astounded the international climbing community with a rapid solo on Annapurna's South Face. But for him, the ascent was a kind of private, nocturnal pilgrimage, influenced by the recollection and example of departed heroes.
More than two decades ago, the climbing artist Jeremy Collins met his future wife. It was the beginning of a love story that would include a green van, a desert wall, a granite dome, years of sickness and health, and a marriage that becomes like "an ever-evolving painting."



The Sharp End
A brief (un)history of night climbing.
A friend remembers the Nepali guide Sona Sherpa.
A cartographer reminds us of the unmappable.
A reader accuses Alpinist of humanism.
On Belay
Ever since he was a boy, Tuolumne's polished domes have formed the skyline of Doug Robinson's imagination. Good thing his first climb there didn't kill him—or we'd miss out on more than sixty years of a great American climbing writer's memories.
Tool User
In which our managing editor presents: George Finch and his amazing feathered dream coat.
The Climbing Life
Sylvain Jouty ponders Life, The Wall and Everything. Douglas Brockmeyer nearly loses his life and his marbles. Molly Loomis longs for an alpinist's crystal ball. Charlotte Austin climbs without metaphor.
In 2003, while visiting George Mallory's son-inlaw, Ed Webster opened a photo album and saw an original print of one of the first photos ever taken near Mt. Everest. Herein, he and George Rodway recount some of the mysteries behind this enigmatic image—whose photographer remains unknown.
Off Belay
Phil Broscovak elucidates the crash-pad dance.

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