Alpinist Magazine Issue 32 - Autumn 2010

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Sharp End

Editor's Note
The editor of Alpinist sounds off. Again. Michael Kennedy
Ed Webster vies for Women in Love. Ed Webster
Tool Users
Our assistant editor celebrates the book that most of us have read. Keese Lane




Cerro Torre controversies, historical omissions and some literary advice.

Climbing Life

The Climbing Life
Katie Lambert falls, then mends; Clint Helander quoths the raven; and Gallaudet Howard writes more fiction.


First Ascent
In 1994 Alex Lowe was the "undisputed chief" of the North American climbing community. He was also a great mentor to his friends. After an attempt on a new ice climb ended in wild flight, Lowe gave Doug Chabot the courage to finish Airborne Ranger. Doug Chabot
Full Value
In 1981 Phil Broscovak plotted a first winter ascent on a terrifying Black Canyon wall—an exploit that seemed a sure way to enter the history books. The result proved to be one of his "wildest wild hairs" ever. Phil Broscovak
Off Belay
It was a dark and stormy ridge.... Jamie Givens

Features Content

Earth, Stone and Sky
Much of the world's great climbing literature describes grand adventures on big, snowy peaks. On a short desert crag, Peter Beal sought a different kind of transcendence. Peter Beal
As a small boy, Ralf Gantzhorn fantasized about sailing to the most beautiful mountain in the world. Years later, he saw a photo of Monte Sarmiento—and a never-ending journey began. Ralf Gantzhorn
In the aftermath of this year's accidents, Colin Haley set out to climb a new route on Mt. Foraker and to explore a landscape of fear, loss and persistent desire. Colin Haley
Searching for Namibia
Since the early days of Himalayan expeditions, Western explorers have longed to fill in the world's "blanks on the map." But what about the local residents who are already familiar with these "unknown" peaks and cliffs? In a remote corner of Namibia, Majka Burhardt strove for a deeper connection between cultural understanding and vertical adventure. Majka Burhardt
On the Trails of the Glaciers
In 1909 the Duke of the Abruzzi attempted K2. Although he didn't get the summit, his expedition photographer, Vittorio Sella, captured some of the most beautiful mountain images in history. A century afterward, Fabiano Ventura traveled to the Karakoram to re-create these and other legendary shots. Along the way, he uncovered visual proof that the world's glaciers are shrinking. Fabiano Ventura

Local Heroes

Local Hero
Blake Herrington presents one force behind the Cascades' "climb local" renaissance: a young alpinist who creates big backyard routes ground up, in a push, with no bolts and often without motorized transport. Blake Herrington

New Sharp End

On Belay
Louis-Philippe Menard recalls his novice years on Quebec's biggest stone, and Chris Van Leuven re-enacts a history of chossaineering. Ed Webster, Louis-Philippe Menard and Chris Van Leuven

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