Alpinist Magazine Issue 26 - Spring 2009

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Mt. Everest, Part I: The Early Years
It is the icon of all mountains, but years of exploitation have impugned the honor of Everest. Ed Webster, with Katie Ives, writes an honest mountain of it, while Wade Davis, Mike Westmacott, Wang Fuzhou and Tom Hornbein weigh in on the early innocence of the Goddess Mother of Earth. Ed Webster and Katie Ives

Sharp End

For alpinists, there's only one drink: scotch. The Editors
Editor's Note
The new editor of Alpinist sounds off. Michael Kennedy
The etymology of Bushido. The Editors
On Belay
Blue ribbons of ice from Cody, Wyoming, and devotion on Arizona's Vermillion Cliffs. Aaron Mulkey and Albert Newman
Tool Users
The genesis of Tom Hornbein's oxygen mask. The Editors


The Editors


Reflections on love and loss, arrogance and reenactments.

Climbing Life

The Climbing Life
Observations from the field.


Escape Route
When Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold bolted one of the proudest lines in Patagonia, purists were outraged. A young alpinist puzzles out the sometimes-paradoxical values of alpine free climbing. Freddie Wilkinson
How do you climb a blank wall without "murdering the impossible"? The author adopts a style that lets him have his pristine adventure and climb it, ground up, too. The result: the Bachar-Yerian, a mental testpiece that still defines boldness and traditional climbing twenty-eight years later. John Bachar
Full Value
A late start, a paucity of gear, and a looming storm combine to menace our heroes. Within hours on a new route up Colorado's Hallett Peak, an all-too-eager apprentice becomes a seasoned alpinist. Robert Culp
Off Belay
One man's failed internship is another's liberation. Will Pass
Will future high-altitude climbers count by numbers or by fair means? In August 2008, eleven climbers died on the world's second-highest peak. A re-examination, seven months later, of what the chaos of memory reveals. Katie Ives

Features Content

After the Fall
No one likes to think about it, but when things are about to go terminally wrong, most climbers hope to be rescued. In the Tetons, the Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers get the call. Ron Matous
The Giri-Giri Boys
In spring 2008, five Japanese alpinists upturned the concept of enchainments in the Alaska Range forever. Two of them didn't come back. How the Giri-Giri Boys found their style, and lost their friends. Katsutaka Yokoyama An Infinite Lightness of Being
The fairytale towers of Elbsandstein near Dresden, Germany, have enchanted (and petrified) climbers for over a century. An exploration of the unusual atmosphere and ethics that make this Saxon wonderland unique. Helmut Schulze
Postcards from Sardinia
To a young Italian steeped in the tradition and routes of the Alps, the crags of southern Italy were an anathema. Then a postcard arrived, and Sardinia's adventure climbing slowly took form. Maurizio Oviglia

Local Heroes

Local Hero
Kelly Cordes is more than familiar with "disaster style" and margaritas. But his unassuming hero, Scott DeCapio, taught him all he knows about simple happiness. With photographs by Dan Gambino. Kelly Cordes

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