Alpinist Magazine Issue 26 - Spring 2009
Profile
- Mt. Everest, Part I: The Early Years
- It is the icon of all mountains, but years of exploitation have impugned the honor of Everest. Ed Webster, with Katie Ives, writes an honest mountain of it, while Wade Davis, Mike Westmacott, Wang Fuzhou and Tom Hornbein weigh in on the early innocence of the Goddess Mother of Earth. Ed Webster and Katie Ives
Sharp End
- Booty
- For alpinists, there's only one drink: scotch. The Editors
- Editor's Note
- The new editor of Alpinist sounds off. Michael Kennedy
- Namesake
- The etymology of Bushido. The Editors
- On Belay
- Blue ribbons of ice from Cody, Wyoming, and devotion on Arizona's Vermillion Cliffs. Aaron Mulkey and Albert Newman
- Tool Users
- The genesis of Tom Hornbein's oxygen mask. The Editors
Contributors
- Contributors
- The Editors
Letters
- Letters
- Reflections on love and loss, arrogance and reenactments.
Climbing Life
- The Climbing Life
- Observations from the field.
Wired
- Escape Route
- When Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold bolted one of the proudest lines in Patagonia, purists were outraged. A young alpinist puzzles out the sometimes-paradoxical values of alpine free climbing. Freddie Wilkinson
- Bachar-Yerian
- How do you climb a blank wall without "murdering the impossible"? The author adopts a style that lets him have his pristine adventure and climb it, ground up, too. The result: the Bachar-Yerian, a mental testpiece that still defines boldness and traditional climbing twenty-eight years later. John Bachar
- Full Value
- A late start, a paucity of gear, and a looming storm combine to menace our heroes. Within hours on a new route up Colorado's Hallett Peak, an all-too-eager apprentice becomes a seasoned alpinist. Robert Culp
- Off Belay
- One man's failed internship is another's liberation. Will Pass
- Wired
- Will future high-altitude climbers count by numbers or by fair means? In August 2008, eleven climbers died on the world's second-highest peak. A re-examination, seven months later, of what the chaos of memory reveals. Katie Ives
Features Content
- After the Fall
- No one likes to think about it, but when things are about to go terminally wrong, most climbers hope to be rescued. In the Tetons, the Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers get the call. Ron Matous
- The Giri-Giri Boys
- In spring 2008, five Japanese alpinists upturned the concept of enchainments in the Alaska Range forever. Two of them didn't come back. How the Giri-Giri Boys found their style, and lost their friends. Katsutaka Yokoyama An Infinite Lightness of Being
- The fairytale towers of Elbsandstein near Dresden, Germany, have enchanted (and petrified) climbers for over a century. An exploration of the unusual atmosphere and ethics that make this Saxon wonderland unique. Helmut Schulze
- Postcards from Sardinia
- To a young Italian steeped in the tradition and routes of the Alps, the crags of southern Italy were an anathema. Then a postcard arrived, and Sardinia's adventure climbing slowly took form. Maurizio Oviglia
Local Heroes
- Local Hero
- Kelly Cordes is more than familiar with "disaster style" and margaritas. But his unassuming hero, Scott DeCapio, taught him all he knows about simple happiness. With photographs by Dan Gambino. Kelly Cordes