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Alpinist Magazine Issue 44 - Autumn 2013

SKU# ALP4413

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Quick Overview

Beyond the crowds on Vinson's normal route, much of the Sentinel Range of Antarctica is a quiet fortress of precise geometry that remains scarcely visited. Yet despite the storms and bitter cold, a few climbers—like Mugs Stump and Erhard Loretan—have ventured up big routes in this unearthly landscape, usually in alpine style, often unheralded and alone. After years of mapping the region, Damien Gildea pieces together the history in this issue Mountain Profile. On the dirty, great and groaning Troll Wall in Norway, Andy Kirkpatrick begins to run out of willing partners. He finds the solution in two skiers who have no idea what lies ahead. Meanwhile, the English poet Helen Mort looks amid the gaps and silences of history at the life of Alison Hargreaves, whose memory still haunts the climbing community. While Peter Croft climbs with ghosts, Barry Blanchard responds to the Squishy Bunny Bunch; Editor Katie Ives and the artist Jeremy Collins honor the victims of the Nanga Parbat attack.

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Beyond the crowds on Vinson's normal route, much of the Sentinel Range of Antarctica is a quiet fortress of precise geometry that remains scarcely visited. Yet despite the storms and bitter cold, a few climbers—like Mugs Stump and Erhard Loretan—have ventured up big routes in this unearthly landscape, usually in alpine style, often unheralded and alone. After years of mapping the region, Damien Gildea pieces together the history in this issue Mountain Profile. On the dirty, great and groaning Troll Wall in Norway, Andy Kirkpatrick begins to run out of willing partners. He finds the solution in two skiers who have no idea what lies ahead. Meanwhile, the English poet Helen Mort looks amid the gaps and silences of history at the life of Alison Hargreaves, whose memory still haunts the climbing community. While Peter Croft climbs with ghosts, Barry Blanchard responds to the Squishy Bunny Bunch; Editor Katie Ives and the artist Jeremy Collins honor the victims of the Nanga Parbat attack.

Features

Mountain Profile: Sentinel Range, Antarctica
Beyond the crowds on Vinson's normal route, the Sentinel Range is a quiet fortress of precise geometry and immense glittering faces, much of which remains scarcely visited. Yet despite the storms and bitter cold, a few climbers have ventured up big routes in this unearthly landscape, usually in alpine style, often unheralded and alone. And among the lesser-known peaks, legends like Mugs Stump and Erhard Loretan once encountered some of their most visionary alpine experiences. After years of mapping the region, Damien Gildea pieces together a history of this "citadel of seekers." John Evans, Patrick Degerman and Conrad Anker narrate their own journeys into mountains of madness under the midnight sun.
Footfalls
Eighteen years after her death on K2, the memory of the great Alison Hargreaves still haunts the climbing community. An English poet, Helen Mort, looks between the lines of books and articles, and amid the gaps and silences of history, in search of connection and understanding.
The Troll's Gift
Back in the 1990s, a dirty, great and groaning wall cast its spell on British alpinist Andy Kirkpatrick. But after four sketchy attempts, he began to run out of willing partners for a winter ascent on Norway's Trollveggen. The solution? Invite a couple of skiers who have no idea what lies ahead.

Departments

The Sharp End
Nanga Parbat, June 22, 2013.
Letters
A member of The Brotherhood writes back to The Squishy Bunny Bunch. A guide advocates for more equal opportunities for Sherpas.
On Belay
When Signar Nilsen first researches one of Norway's hardest mountains, he's surprised to learn its original route was established in 1910—and even more astonished at how hard it is to re-create the ascent.
The Climbing Life
Chris Kalman finds math in movement. Paul Hersey peers into the void—until it finally gazes back. Ed Hartouni argues the need to cultivate our vertical gardens.
Full Value
"Big Mike" Cowper's best friend takes a break from changing diapers to check out a particularly harrowing trip report on SuperTopo. Although the tale of monsoonlike rain on a long Squamish route sounds pretty grim, he decides the two of them can one-up the epic.
Escape Route
Peter Croft recalls a new route in California's Sequoia National Park that started with dreams of 2,000 feet of granite and beer-wielding Valkyries. And ended in a reunion with ghosts.
In Memoriam
Jeremy Collins pays tribute to the victims of Nanga Parbat.

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