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Alpinist Magazine Issue 42 - Spring 2013

SKU# ALP4213

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Quick Overview

Kyle Dempster reflects on the transcendent ascents and strict ethics of older alpinists like Mark Twight, Barry Blanchard and Steve House to create his own manifesto. Brandon Pullan befriends the legendary mountaineers of the Canadian Rockies; Peter Haan, Paul Maxim and Dave Austin re-examine the career and death of one of New Zealand's strongest alpinists, Bill Denz; and Ralf Gantzhorn and Robert Jasper climb Monte Giordano in Tierra del Fuego in the dark.

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Kyle Dempster reflects on the transcendent ascents and strict ethics of older alpinists like Mark Twight, Barry Blanchard and Steve House to create his own manifesto. Brandon Pullan befriends the legendary mountaineers of the Canadian Rockies; Peter Haan, Paul Maxim and Dave Austin re-examine the career and death of one of New Zealand's strongest alpinists, Bill Denz; and Ralf Gantzhorn and Robert Jasper climb Monte Giordano in Tierra del Fuego in the dark.

Features

The Torch and The Brotherhood
In the 1990s and early 2000s, alpinists like Steve House, Barry Blanchard and Mark Twight created an intimidating legacy of transcendent ascents and rebellious manifestos. Twight's books, Kiss or Kill and Extreme Alpinism, remain some of the most influential works of climbing literature today. Last summer, when Kyle Dempster traveled to the Karakoram to climb K7 and the Ogre I, he contemplated what his own, younger generation might contribute.
Homage
Twelve years ago, Brandon Pullan began seeking out the legendary mountaineers who'd first climbed the steep frozen waterfalls and big alpine faces of the Canadian Rockies. As he met and climbed with several of his heroes, he realized that learning history isn't just about trying to understand the past, but about navigating the future.
Boldness, Genius, Magic: The Life of Bill Denz
Possessing an unusually high level of determination and risk tolerance, Bill Denz accelerated the course of New Zealand alpinism during the 1970s and early 1980s, climbing huge alpine routes in minimalist style, continuing through bad conditions and storms, often in winter and alone. Some climbers thought he was reckless. Others believed he was mysteriously invincible—until his abrupt death on the West Pillar of Makalu in 1983. Peter Haan, Paul Maxim and Dave "Zappa" Austin reflect on a great (and strangely lesser-known) alpinist who remained enigmatic to everyone, perhaps even to himself.
Just Another Bear Story
Doug Robinson tells a Yosemite tale of losing a pipe, encountering a Ranger, and discovering that people have more in common with bears than he thought.

Departments

The Sharp End
Packing our libraries.
On Belay
In 2012 Ralf Gantzhorn, Jörn Heller and Robert Jasper sailed to Tierra del Fuego in Patagonia to climb a mountain with three names, no reliable maps, predictably bad weather and one big shark fin ridge.
Tool Users
Our managing editor eradicates ironmongery.
The Climbing Life
Mark C. Rodell chops a bolt. Alexis Perry witnesses a death. Jerry Auld invokes Italo Calvino's ghost.
Escape Route
In 1989, seeking solitude far from the Lycra-wearing crowd, Eric Kohl headed for Yosemite Falls Wall with an unlikely new partner. It was the beginning, as the saying goes, of a beautiful friendship.
Wired
Many articles have described the struggles and accomplishments of Sherpas on commercial Himalayan expeditions. But what about the low-altitude porters whose hard and dangerous labor still enables many alpine-style ascents?
Off Belay
Helen Mort takes off the dress.
The Sharp End
Packing our libraries.
On Belay
In 2012 Ralf Gantzhorn, Jörn Heller and Robert Jasper sailed to Tierra del Fuego in Patagonia to climb a mountain with three names, no reliable maps, predictably bad weather and one big shark fin ridge.

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